How I Roll (Cote Brune Stomps on the Terra and blogs about it)
Nook
**
2009-10-22
Food
Orecchiette, Italian sausage, fennel, rapini and chilles - $15
Drink
Nero d’Avola Sedàra Donna Fugata (Sicily) 2006 - $9.5
Details
Nook
Nook
Beefy Beef Noodle House
**
2009-10-19
**
Beefy Beef Noodle House
Chinese
Noodles
Taiwanese
$
|
4063 Main Street, Vancouver (Main Antique Row
) (604) 568-6821
Food
Spicy Beef Brisket Noodles - $6.95
Drink
Tea - Complimentary
Details
With a name like Beefy Beef noodles, you just have to try the signature dish.
Seriously, Taiwanese Beef noodles are an amazing dish, and any place that does them well is
to be cherished. Beefy Beef Noodle house may not be the absolute best but they are very good
indeed. The broth is fairly concentrated with beef flavour but not overly salty. The noodles
are chewy with good bite and nicely distinct. (Almost certainly house made but fresh for sure).
The beef itself is thickly cut, with translucent striations of fat. Tender and meaty. A few pieces
of bok choi and some sliced chives and scallions complete the dish. Very filling and extremely good
value.
Beefy Beef noodle house
9th Avenue Grill
*
2009-10-18
*
9th Avenue Grill
Breakfast
|
1822 Broadway West (Kitsilano
) (604) 714-0744
Web
1060 Howe Street (Downtown
) 604.688.0717
Web
Food
Two Eggs any style - $6.95
Drink
Coffee - $2.10
Details
9th Avenue Grill
9th Avenue Grill
Zakos Deli
*
2009-10-17
*
Zakos Deli
Deli
Sandwiches
$
|
102-500 Broadway West (Fairview
) (604) 709-9203
Food
Small Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich - $6.25
Drink
Water - Complimentary
Details
Zakos
Zakos
Hachibei
*
2009-10-09
*
Hachibei
Japanese
Sushi
Sashimi
Yoshoku
$$
|
778 West 16th Street (Fairview
Cambie Village
) 604-879-3357
Web
Food
Tofu Hamburger Teishoku - $10.95
Drink
Kirin Ichiban - $9.50
Details
While most would view Hachibei as a sushi bar (and they are solid in that department) they also have a selection
of Teishoku and Yoshoku homestyle dishes served as a set course, including rice, miso soup and side dishes along with a main item.
A variety of grilled fishes are available and while they are good and very much the way japanese home cooking is,
the Yoshoku dish labeled Tofu Hamburger is especially of interest. Vegetarians be warned this is not for you. As the
menu mentions the hamburger are patties of ground beef mixed with tofu. And North American traditionalists be warned,
these hamburgers have no buns. Instead, 3 small grilled patties are coated in a sweet teriyaki like sauce. The tofu
lightens the patties (if you've ever grated in vegetables to a patty its the same idea) which ironically accentuates
the meatiness. Very tasty. A small amout of searingly sharp mustard is also provided. Sides include an ice cream scoop of rather
good potato salad (firm but not undercooked), a fresh romaine salad, miso soup, a bowl of rice and some tsuekemono (pickled
veggies). Tasty, fresh, filling. Green tea goes well with all of this but then so does the ubiquitous J-brews. Beer and a
burger, Japanese style!
Hachibei
La Taqueria
**
2009-10-06
**
La Taqueria
Mexican
$
|
322 Hastings Street West (Downtown
) (604) 568-4406
Food
Lengue Taco - $2.50
Drink
Jaritos Tamarindo Soda - $2.00
Details
La Taqueira might be a one trick pony, but its a pretty good trick. Outside of a rather throw-away quesadilla option Tacos are the sole
item on the menu. Not a bad thing when you consider the variety of fillings for these authentic tacos. (2 small soft corn tortillas mounded
with savoury options served open faced and only pinched into the form most gringos recognize when you pick it up to eat it)
There are around 8 meat based options and 4 vegetarian (some vegan even). While several of the veggie options are really excellent,
if I had to pick one variety it would be the lengue or beef tongue. Slow simmered, small cubes of tender and flavourful tongue mix
with the toppings to provide a delicious and meaty fillings. The tortillas are nicely firm, and hold up fairly well to the moist
filling. Drink options are similarly limited, but the tamarind soda has a bit of pleasant sourness that works well with the strong
flavours in the tacos.
Pinche Taqueira indeed. After two failed attempts to patronize this eagerly awaited addition addition to crosstown I was
thinking to myself, this had better be great. After one visit, under slightly challenging circumstances I'd say that the taqueira is
good, perhaps very good but not great. After a bit of time to digest, I have to say, perhaps they don't need to be great, they are still
exactly what Vancouver needs.
And what does Vancouver need. Better street food. No question there. Of course, the best we can do under the present circumstances
is more traditional restaurants serving authentic inexpensive street food in small spaces which invite diners to take their food and dine al fresco
in good weather. Hey come to think of it, perhaps with all the rain we really don't need street food. Just more places like taqueira that
are take out friendly but do offer some shelter for eating when its raining. (Ok and more that are open late and more with licenses....but
one thing at a time.)
Ok, lets backtrack a bit. Another way to look at La Taqueira is to view it as a balancing of the cosmic scales. Not too long ago, the space at
322 West Hastings was occupied by one of the sublime Nuba locations. Across the street the good Mouse and the Bean mexican restaurant
occupying the cavernous basement space in the heritage Dominion building closed. Nuba moved in to the vacated space (upping the ante significantly
stylish redesign, grilled entrees and a great drinks program and just generally being superb). It is meet and fitting that the now vacated Nuba
spot be taken over by a solid Mexican restaurant. I'm pretty ecstatic at how this all turned out and the risk of cosmic rifts due to the imbalance of
inexpensive and authentic Mexican and Lebanese restaurants is avoided. Pretty sweet.
Back to the present, I was determined that I would not be denied the chance to taste these tacos today, and informed my wife that I would
be dining there this evening. She was also informed that I would be pleased if she and our two young sons joined me, but that
the lack of their company would in no way sway my intentions. Happily she was of a like mind. The need to arrive there before their
early 7pm closing on Tuesday dovetailed with the need to get our children fed at a reasonable hour so we met enroute and arrived
at La Taquiera by 6pm.
A sandwich board out front proclaimed that I would not be denied a third time so with great expectations we went in. The street frontage of
La Taqueira is striking. A painting of the Virgin Mary is bisected by the front window which faces the small open kitchen. Inside
a long corridor runs alongside the counter. Ordering is at the middle, seats to the rear. Bright colours, lovely exposed brick
its a cheerful and effective decor that matches the food. When we arrived the restaurant was half full, but service was quick.
We ordered two taco sets, 4 meat for $9.50 and 4 vegetarian for $7. Our dishes arrived quickly, and due to small children and
hungry bellies I did not happen to snap any photos of the tacos.
Of the meat tacos, I particularly liked the Lengue (beef tongue) which was tender and flavourful and the pork confit which was
incredibly soft and tasty (I imagine pork sashimi would have the same texture...). The Pescado was a flavourful fish taco, but
didn't really blow me away. My wife was partial to the chicken mole which was earthy and complex. We ended up ordering two more
lengue as my son enjoyed this the most as well.
Among the vegetarian options, the roasted pepper was very good and the tofu option was excellent. We ordered two cheese and bean tacos
thinking they would go over well with the young boys, but these were the sole flop of the evening. The bean was rather dry, the cheese
unmelted and the boys were unimpressed. Next time I'll most definitely go with the other veg options (including a mushroom variant we
did not try).
So, overall, this is good, inexpensive and largely authentic Mexican food. A liquor licese would be welcome (there was a hint this may be
coming in the future) and if the space were bigger and had some tables in addition to counter style seating that would also be great. But those
are minor quibbles. A welcome addition to the neighbourhood.
Cactus Club Cafe
*
2009-09-30
*
Cactus Club Cafe
Contemporary
Casual
|
357 Davie Street (Yaletown
) 604.685.8070
Web
Food
Butternut Squash Ravioli - $17
Drink
Sandhill Estate Pinot Blanc - $8
Details
Cactus Club Cafe has a not so secret weapon in the casual fine dining wars. "Iron Chef" Rob Feenie
has jumped ship from the Lumiere and Feenies empire he helped to build and taken the position of "Food Concept Architect"
at the Cactus Club chain. He brings instant credibility to the franchises aspirations and also many dishes that will be
familiar to patrons of the now defunct Feenie's. One of his signature dishes makes it onto the menu, the butternut squash
ravioli. Fresh pasta sheets envelop a smooth and rich squash filling and are minimally dressed with clarified butter that has
toasted pine nuts and sage. Very minimal, excellent and other than a slight rubberiness in the pasta not much different than
what was previously served at both Lumiere and Feenie's. Encouraging that good food does scale. The Sandhill Pinot blanc
is a solid B.C. white that has impressive mouthfeel, restrained fruit and decent acidity. The sweetness in the squash filling
finds resonance in the wine, bringing out more fruit than is apparent when tasting alone.
Cactus club with dad
Memphis Blues
****
2009-09-29
****
Memphis Blues
Barbeque
Wine Bar
Casual
$$
|
1342 Commercial Drive (Commercial Drive
) 604.215.2599
Web
1465 West Broadway Ave (South Granville
) 604.738.6806
Web
Food
Rib ends - $8.99
Drink
Selbach Riesling - $7
Details
Memphis Blues has possibly the best matched food and wine list in the city.
And this combo is paradoxically off-the-charts good. But its not for the
faint of heart. The pork rib ends are fatty, cartiliginous and messy,
but a sweet smoky fatty treat. The riesling is a sweet and sour masterpiece
with the ribs. The fact that they serve the wines in basic highball glasses makes you feel
better about the delicious fingerprints you are leaving on the glass. The pairing was suggested to me by the proprieter and
when I've subsequently ordered it the staff usually perk up and smile knowingly.
Cement your foodie status by finishing with a shot of the Pappy Van Winkle bourbon.
Food
Large Beef Brisket Sandwich - $8.75
Drink
Willowglen Petite Syrah- $7
Details
If you are not game for chewing on fat and crunchy cartilage, a more conventional and much leaner pairing is the beef brisket sandwich and
the Willowglen petite syrah. The rich meaty beef with the sweet barbeque sauce finds a perfect match with the
rich deep soft dusky inky petite syrah. Its an equally awesome match (I do after all
know a thing or two about wine and at least a bit about barbeque) but
at least ten times more obvious.
Memphis Blues Barbeque with Dad
Pourhouse
***
2009-09-28
Food
Pork and Beans - $16
Drink
The Centennial - $10
Details
The newly opened Pourhouse menu courtesy of chef Chris Irving that is grounded in traditional comfort food but does have some contemporary flourishes.
The pork and beans is a good example. The white beans are well cooked but retain their integrity and a hint of bite rather than the overcooked
mush that you'd find from a can, and the sauce has some real tomato flavour, barely any sweetness and other than being a bit under-seasoned
for my taste the beans were excellent. On the pork side of things, there was a mini 'chub' sausage on top that was meaty and a bit crumbly and
some slices of another sausage that were a bit firmer in texture. Both were sourced from 'The Cure', Robert Belcham's Charcuterie concern and were
unsurprisingly delicious. A thick slice of pork belly, braised then fried to give it some crunch provided another ecellent foil to the beans and
sauce. This dish is at once traditional and contemporary and I think a great exemplar of the food concept at Pourhouse.
The Bar at Pourhouse is the domain of Jay Jones, and his concise
list of cocktails does not disappoint. The Centennial melds two shots of real Canadian Rye whiskey, some apricot brandy, peach puree and lemon juice together.
The result is a surpringly balanced drink that has spicy booziness, sweet fruit, and sourness in equal measure. The apricot flavour
really comes through. Its a good match for the ?Bikesen as it cuts the richness of the potatoes.
Pourhouse redux
Toratatsu
**
2009-09-24
Food
Kurobuta Sausage with Mustard - $5.80
Drink
Take Sake - $9
Details
While Toratatsu has many Izakaya standards that are worth tasting, I was intrigued by pork sausage. Kurobuta is
the 'black pig' heritage breed (Berkshire in England) which is acclaimed for its flavour. Presentation is simple, the sausage has been
grilled then sliced on the bias into bite size pieces, plated with some greens and some grainy mustard. Simple but delicious.
The sausage itself is fine textured but has an excellent assertive pork flavour.
Perhaps not the most Japanese dish but I think it fits perfectly with the overall direction of the menu and speaks equally to the
European and Japanese palate. While a cold Japanese lager would certainly match well, the Take Sake (Sake Served in a frozen bamboo
piece pitcher and bamboo cup is excellent with the sausage. The hint of residual sugar in the sake plays off the fat in the sausage
and tempers the mustard.
Toratatsu
Pourhouse
***
2009-09-24
Food
Pork and Beans - $16
Drink
The Centennial - $10
Details
The newly opened Pourhouse menu courtesy of chef Chris Irving that is grounded in traditional comfort food but does have some contemporary flourishes.
The pork and beans is a good example. The white beans are well cooked but retain their integrity and a hint of bite rather than the overcooked
mush that you'd find from a can, and the sauce has some real tomato flavour, barely any sweetness and other than being a bit under-seasoned
for my taste the beans were excellent. On the pork side of things, there was a mini 'chub' sausage on top that was meaty and a bit crumbly and
some slices of another sausage that were a bit firmer in texture. Both were sourced from 'The Cure', Robert Belcham's Charcuterie concern and were
unsurprisingly delicious. A thick slice of pork belly, braised then fried to give it some crunch provided another ecellent foil to the beans and
sauce. This dish is at once traditional and contemporary and I think a great exemplar of the food concept at Pourhouse.
The Bar at Pourhouse is the domain of Jay Jones, and his concise
list of cocktails does not disappoint. The Centennial melds two shots of real Canadian Rye whiskey, some apricot brandy, peach puree and lemon juice together.
The result is a surpringly balanced drink that has spicy booziness, sweet fruit, and sourness in equal measure. The apricot flavour
really comes through. Its a good match for the ?Bikesen as it cuts the richness of the potatoes.
Well, this is one I'd been waiting on, drooling about etc. I've been a huge fan of Jay Jones and his work, most recently
at Voya and when I heard the news that he was striking out on his own to open Pourhouse I was counting down the days and
expecting nothing less than kickass. In the interim, the anticipation has been building to a palpable level as numerous convesations with
Jay at various fine watering holes, Pourhouse website blog and teaser articles in local food sites reinforced the impression that
Pourhouse would be a very fine place indeed.
Some back story first. The location that Pourhouse was to inhabit was most recently inhabited by 'Flux'. Flux opened in the heady
days of 2007, one of more than one hundred notable restaurant openings that year. In truth, Flux never really gathered any buzz or
attention in the local press or industry scene and so was largely left to prosper or die based on the whims of the tourists walking
past this well positioned location on Water Street. (A stones throw from the steam clock) While the principals of the venture had experience
at some well regarded local restaurants it did not seem to translate into industry and foodie insider business. Perhaps many made a
courtesy drop in for a bite but clearly if they did there was not much repeat business. I saw empty or near empty houses many times on my
way to various other Gastown restaurants and watched as Flux made increasingly desperate moves to sway business. Extreme discounting was tried
but selling food at a loss or bare break even only works if its short term and you retain that business when prices move back to a more
normal level. Doing this for a primarily tourist traffic is dangerous. Possibly liquour sales might get you through, but in any case you need
volume along with the reduced prices and for the most part this still did not happen. Eventually, the dreaded padlock and baliff notices appeared
and flux became another tombstone along the trail of restauranteur dreams.
Into this breach, did Pourhouse aspire to stand, and to succeed. On the surface, the potential to thrive was here. It was and is a prime gastown location,
with massive seasonal foot traffic. If a reasonable traction with the tourist trade could be coupled to a solid local following then
the basis for success is there.
Joining Jay Jones, Chris Irving joined the partership early on. Bringing a wealth of experience from great kitchens within Vancouver and without,
Chris' stated aim was to bring delicious food that would make sense to earlier generations to the table at fair prices. Chris had done
haute cuisine and emerged with a desire to serve honest tasty food with no pretense.
As detailed in their blogs, the food and beverage concepts for Pourhouse were refined. Suppliers were located. Reclaimed heritage wood was
found for the bartop, which was raised by the community of Vancouver's fine bartenders and blooded with Makers Mark bourbon. As labour day
punctuated the end of summer proper news came that opening was expected by the end of the month. Finally, word came out that soft opening
was in fact happening. I read this literally as I was exiting the skytrain on my way home after having had a dinner at Toratatsu, but
I crossed the platform and headed back to Gastown on the spot. On that ride back, my anticipation built as I realized I was minutes away
from experiencing the realization of Jay and Chris' dream.
When I entered Pourhouse it was about half full, but I fortunately found a seat at the bar which was peppered with local industry stalwarts.
Perusing the concise cocktail card, two drinks stood out to me. The Centennial and the Gold Fashioned. I started with the centennial ($10)
which fuses Alberta Rye (real rye grain whiskey not generic "rye" Canadian whiskey)with apricot brandy, lemon juice, peach puree. A very balanced
and refresing drink with good sweet and sour components and an underlying spicy booziness.
As I had eaten earlier I wanted to just
have some tastes from the menu so settled on a Beet and Goat Cheese Salad ($8) and a side of Biksemad ($9).
Intended as an accompaniment, it also works well as a snack. The salad was decent. Many places make something similar and this was neither outstanding nor
wretched. The Biksemad was excellent. Rich meaty pureed potatoes were mounded on the plate with pickled beets ringing the base and a
a pefectly sunny side up quail egg perched on top. The beets provided a nice sweet-sour contrast to the smooth rich potatoes. The quail egg, with its
warm yolk provided a sublime bite mixed in with a scoop of the potatoes that was a true culinary epiphany. Tasting the warm yolk along with the potatoes is one of those moments where you realize sometimes the simple things are best.
That one bite stands up there with any taste I've had in recent memory.
After finishing the Centennial, I had to try the Gold Fashioned. Jay is a true champion of Makers Mark bourbon and this variant on
the classic 'Old Fashioned' cocktail featuring makers mark seemed to be an essential measure of the bar at Pourhouse. Incorporating
an ounce and a half of makers mark, maple syrup, and other ingredients, the Gold Fashioned is a fairly stiff drink. The
maple syrup tempers the bourbon but is not overly sweet.
I've neglected to talk about the room itself
Service was also excellent. Jay is a consumate host, but I found all the front of house to be uniformly excited, passionate about Pourhouse and
refreshingly humble. I had less opportunity to guage the kitchen staff but the quality and timeliness of their work speaks to a similar enthusiasm.
With such high and long running expectations, it was a tall order for Pourhouse to meet them. Happily, for me the succeeded
Habit
***
2009-09-15
Food
Pork Croquettes with Spiced Tomato Chutney and Braised Fennel - $11
Drink
Retro Deconstructed Sloe Gin Fizz - $10
Details
"Well Portland Oregon and Sloe Gin Fizz; If that ain't love then tell me what is". Well, Habit is not in Oregon,
and the Sloe Gin Fizz in their deconstructed retro cocktail series features saskatoon berry infused gin rather than sloe gin,
but the rest fits. Restaurant principal and barman extroardinaire Nick Devine is either brilliant or lazy. Ok, he's brilliant
for sure, can't really say about the lazy but what he has done here is turn things on their head and leave the mixing of the drink
to the customer. Components are pre-measured and suggested steps are provided, but ultimately the consumer is in charge. My
wife was less impressed, likening it to some Izakayas that allow customers to add their mix to the base drink of their choice.
Kingyo perhaps gets closest in having the customer juice their own grapefruit for the grapefruit and shochu coctail but this is another
level entirely. A bento box arrives, with mini decanters and cups containing the liquid and solid components of the drink along
with the appropriate glass (filled with ice or not depending on the drink) and a small cocktail shaker. The user assembles the drink.
In the case of the 'Sloe' Gin Fizz which I ordered there are decanters of Saskatoon Berry infused gin (No sloe gin or sloe berries
to be had in this part of the world) citrus and soda. A twist of lemon is also provided. Although the instructions mention not to add the soda to the shaker
(which I knew anyhow) the waitress mentioned this. I guess there have been a few mishaps from customers deciding to go freestyle
already. The end result, a tasty drink, which as Nick mentioned, can't be returned as the customer made it themselves. No worries on that
account if you read and follow the instructions. The infused gin has a lovely colour and aroma with some sweetness imparted to the taste
but also some complex berry flavour. A hit of citrus and soda and this is a failsafe refreshing drink.
"Hey Bartender, Before you go, pour us one more drink, and a pitcher to go."
To go along with this new drink menu, the resurrected Habit has new decor and a retooled menu. From the small plates portion of the menu
the pork croquettes provide a filling and flavourful option. 4 cylinders of minced pork are breaded and fried to a golden crispy exterior
with the interior left warm and moist. Very dense and meaty with much more texture and flavour than your run of the mill pork dumpling.
(I need to confirm the provenance of the pork but would not be surprised to find it both fresh and local to the province) The
croquettes are accompanied by a chunky 'spiced tomato chutney' which I found to be not overty spiced (neither in terms of heat nor
intense flavours) but nicely jammy while still having good texture in the individual fine chunks of tomato. It did go well with the
croquettes and contrasted with the very rich and dense meaty filling. The braised fennel was not really standing out, but was tasty enough.
I preferred it on its own to alternate with bites of the croquette and tomato chutney. Overall, a tasty dish and notably filling and good
value for a starter. A bit heavy perhaps, and more acid in the accompaniments might have helped in this regard.
Though the logo of Habit is a mounted stag head, a phoenix might be a more appropriate bit of heraldry.
Pho Tan
*
2009-09-15
*
Pho Tan
Vietnamese
$
|
4598 Main Street (Main Antique Row
) 604-873-3345
Food
Com Tam Ga Bi, Trung - $7.50
Drink
Heineken - $4.50
Details
The Pho soup at Pho Tan is perfectly solid, and a good option if you want something warm and filling but it
does not really stand out. Conversely the Com Tam Ga Bi, Trung, a grilled chicken plate I found to be an above average take
on what I find to be a generally indifferent option at Vietnamese restaurants: Grilled meat, rice or vermicelli noodles, spring roll
or other fried item and some salad. Here the chicken had some nice charred flavour and the vinegary fish sauce based dressing
had some zip to keep it interesting. Rice is a better choice than vermicelli noodles as I find them to be bland in taste and texture
except in the context of Pho, and the rice soaks up the sauces better. A nice element on this plate is an egg dish, almost a quiche
that was unexpected but tasty being richer than the meat rice or salad. To drink, tea is always a good option but so to is a cold lager.
The Heineken is a bit more than the domestic options but worth it for the crisper profile. Ironically, the wall at Pho Tan is decorated with
empty First-Growth Bordeaux bottles (Mouton, Margaux and Lafitte among others). I can't imagine any are actually on offer but it would be cool
if they were.
Pho Tan might not stand out among the many Vietnamese cafe's that filling, flavourful tasty inexpensive food,
but then it certainly does not suffer by comparison.
Gyo-O
**
2009-09-15
**
Gyo-O
Japanese
Sashimi
$$
|
2137-3779 Sexsmith Rd. (Richmond
) 604-295-4072
Food
Toro Gyo-O Roll - $6.95
Drink
Water - Complimentary
Details
The Gyo-O roll is kind of a hybrid of sushi and sashimi. Literally it is a tower of tuna sashimi mounded on top of
3 pieces of maki sushi and topped with tobiko. The pieces of sushi roll have a seaweed filling and are in themselves pretty straightforward.
The tuna sashimi on top of the rolls is quite good, fresh tasting and very tender. In terms of texture it reminded me of
toro (toro Gyo-O roll is also available for $8.95) Different certainly, but it works. Basically sashimi with some filler rolls
to provide bulk and also some texture. You can eat the maki pieces with the sashimi or separately. Its up to the diner's preference.
Overall, a fun play with the concepts of sashimi and maki and well worth the premium over any $5.95 tuna sashimi appetizer I've tasted.
To drink there are a variety of canned soft drinks. Nothing I'd particularly want to drink with the sushi. Water rather than tea is
offered by Gyo-O so water it is to drink. A liquor license would change this though and any of the standard Japa-Brews or dry sake would
do nicely. One can hope this becomes an option in the future.
Gyo-O
West
***
2009-09-05
***
West
French
Seafood
Contemporary
West Coast
Pacific Northwest
Cocktail Bar
Tasting Menu
Prix Fixe
|
2881 Granville St. Vancouver (South Granville
) 604 738 8938
Web
Food
BIODYNAMIC AGED RISOTTO OF ZUCCHINI, PEAS AND CHANTERELLES SCENTED WITH PEPPERWOOD BAY LEAF - $19.50
Drink
Four O'Clock - $13
Details
On the surface, this is too simple a dish to stand out at such a celebrated restaurant. Really, its a basic
vegetable risotto. Expertly prepared to be sure, but many restaurants and indeed home cooks can turn out spot on risotto. The elevating
factor in the dish is in fact the rice. I'm not sure of the exact provenance, but the Biodynamic aged rice used in the risotto
inverts the usual focus on the flavourings in the risotto and puts the rice squarely in the centre. The aged rice has a nutty, dry
complex flavour that is assertive enough to permeate the dish. This nutty, earthy rice flavour finds complimentary notes in the
chanterelles and the shaved reggiano and contrasts in the fresh zucchini and peas. Really quite nice and unexpected. I suppose a light
red like a pinot noir would pair well (or a dry aromatic white like a semillon, soave or southern Rhone white), but I'm a sucker for a good bartender and David W. is one of the best. Among the contemporary
'West Cocktail' creations that preface the extensive list of classic drinks I'm partial to the Four O'Clock. Bourbon provides the base,
navan vanilla tempers it. Bitters, citrus and a creamy foam served in martini glass make for a gentlemanly, yet manly drink.
I suppose the risotto and the drink don't really play off each other, but sometimes I have to recommend the food and drink in
their own right, independent of considerations of how well the work together.
West seems to be the consensus pick as best restaurant in the city. Its hard to argue against that, though
Ebisu
*
2009-09-04
*
Ebisu
Japanese
Tasting Bar
|
827 Bute Street (West end
Downtown
) (604) 689-8266
Web
601 W. Broadway (Fairview
) 604-876-3388
Web
Food
Golden Prawns - $6.95
Drink
Okanagan Springs 1516 Lage - $4.95
Details
Ebisu seems to focus on the Japanese equivalent of pub food. So, the very cold Okanagan Springs
1516 lager is a good match with most of the menu. To eat, if available try the golden prawns from the daily specials.
A scallop shell is above a ceramic pedestal which contains a candle. The heat boils the sauce which has some garlic and miso in it
cooking the shredded onions, mushroms and halved tiger prawns. Tasty, with a fun presentation. If the prawn special is not
available try the regular dish on the menu which features scallops rather than prawns. Flavours are more refined than
a typical fried ebi-mayo dish. (In fact thats what initially ordered but the waitress helpfully mentioned the special in case
I was interested in a different prawn preparation. Glad she asked.)
Ebisu
Coast
**
2009-09-03
**
Coast
Seafood
Contemporary
West Coast
Pacific Northwest
$$$
|
1054 Alberni (Downtown
) 604.685.5010
Web
Food
Fish and Chips Hand Roll - $8
Drink
Decked out Ceasar - $8
Details
There are many interesting options at newly re-located Coast restaurant. If you like fresh oysters the selection
here is wide with quality and pricing on par that other place around the corner on Alberni. There are also many seafood options
among the mains, many Ocean Wise certified and all with some provenance listed on the menu (down to the boat and fisherman in several cases).
However, if you are looking for something fun and exciting try the Fish and Chips Hand Roll. This isn't really sushi, but
evokes a temaki hand cone playfully but effectively. A stone slab is the platform, bearing two cones wrapped in coloured rice
paper rolls stuffed with fried halibut, kaiware (daikon sprouts) and tartar sauce. Soy, wasabi and pickled ginger are also provided for
dipping. I have to say, while the apprehension of gimmicry is natural these rolls are great. The flavours are basically fish and
chips, but the kaiware and wasabi add a Japanese element. Also, the tempura batter on the halibut was both light and crunch and the
fish inside moist and sweet. To drink, the Coast signature decked out Ceasar is a similarly fun and bold item. Inside the tall glass
you have a pretty conventional spicy (rather spicy) Ceasar, but the rim is an assertive celery salt that holds up to the strong flavours
in the drink. Since the celery is on the rim not stirring the drink there is a large peeled tiger prawn chilled and impaled on a chopstick.
Wow. Needless to say the chilled prawn tastes great while drinking the cocktail. Ok, I'll admit, its a farmed prawn, not so
Ocean Wise, but very few of us can boast lifestyles where we are free enough of enviro-sin to cast the first stone so I'll
let this be a small case of putting my taste buds above the big picture of our food supply.
Coast
Voya
***
2009-09-03
***
Voya
French
Contemporary
West Coast
Pacific Northwest
Cocktail Bar
Small Plates
Tapas
Fusion
$$$$
|
1177 Melville Street (Downtown
West end
) 604.639.VOYA
Web
Food
Fatty Duck Liver and BBQ Eel terrine with pickled Shimeji Mushrooms and Bosc Pears - $18.99
Drink
Sazerac - $14
Details
Excecutive Chef Marc-Andre Chocquette is no stranger to luxury cuisine. While the overall menu at
Voya is less rarefied than the multicourse tasting menus he helped create at Lumiere there are some items, like the Duck liver terrine
that are both visceral and conceptual indulgence. Quebecois fatty duck liver (Foie Gras) composes the majority of the terrine,
but a layer of barbequed eel (If you've had anago or unagi at a sushi bar, its the same thing) floats in the middle.
The liver is supremely rich and smooth, while the eel is also rich, sweet and meaty with a bit of texture.
The slice on the plate is not huge but the richness of this dish makes it unnecesary (not to mention the cost that would be
entailed). Pickled Shimeji mushrooms and some pear help provide some acid to balance the unctuous texture of the terrine.
As a drink, an off dry white wine or dessert would be a natural, but the bar program at Voya is exemplary and also offers
some great options. The Sazerac served at Voya is technically a Sazerac Royal as Cognac is the base spirit.
(The Sazerac is one of the truly great cocktails and worth reading about in its own right.) 2 ounces of Hennesy VSOP cognac
are mixed with Peychaud bitters, sugar and lemon and strained into a glass that has been coated with absinthe. This drink has a
backbone, as the bitters and absinthe provide definition, but the cognac provides a velvety complex base. Against the
richness of the terrine there is both complementary richness and cleansing bite. True luxury on both counts.
Ok, technically this is not a review of Voya, but for all intents and purposes the Mercury Rising event hosted in the
15th floor penthouse Apollo Suite of the Loden Hotel is catered by the Voya kitchen and bar staff.
Hiroshi's Sushi Creations
**
2009-09-02
**
Hiroshi's Sushi Creations
Japanese
Sushi
Sashimi
|
3720 Oak Street (Fairview
) 604 737-7728
Food
Energy Roll - $4
Drink
Tea - Complimentary
Details
Hiroshi's specializes in their sushi 'creations', essentially fusion or modern sushi.
The series of creations rolls showcase non-traditional ingredients, sauces or combinations.
Fusion sushi can be fantastic, but requires deep knowledge of flavours and discipline to avoid
mediocrity or worse. Technique also cannot be superceded by interesting combinations. Happily,
Hiroshi seems to have a handle on all of this and so its well worth trying his creations. The energy roll
for example marries tuna with pumpkin and garlic lime sauce. This works well as the zippiness of the sauce is
tempered by the sweetness of the pumpkin. The tuna does not star here, but does add a meaty underpinning.
Excellent value as well. Brown rice rolls are available with a small supplement.
Hiroshi's sushi creations
Chaise Lounge
*
2009-08-30
*
Chaise Lounge
Small Plates
Contemporary
$$
|
4444 Main St. (Main Antique Row
) 604-874-7114
Web
Food
Crab croquettes - $8
Drink
Driftwood Ale - $6
Details
Chaise lounges decor might say otherwise, but the menu is solidly in the west coast contemporary small plates and
comfort food trends that are dominating our culinary landscape during this recession. The crab croquettes kind of exemplify that.
Simultaneously Ocean Wise and fried, these croquettes hit a lower price point by virtue of not being crab cakes. Lots of
binder here, (though I've also said that about crab 'cakes' at twice the price far too often) still they were crispy, hot,
moist inside and with a decent crab flavour. Nothing to complain about at the price and reasonably filling to boot. Fried food
equals beer, and the small tap selection at Chaise includes the excellent Driftwood ale from the outstanding Driftwood brewery on the island.
This beer is light bodied but has a clean sweet malt flavour. It finishes very clean and crisp courtesy of the Germanic hops used.
Anyhow, the crab croquettes and the driftwood ale make a tasty snack; nothing profound but far better than most of the
fried nibbles and mainstream 'micro' brews you'd find at pubs and casual restaurants all over town.
Chaise Lounge
Golden Great Wall
*
2009-08-21
*
Golden Great Wall
Chinese
Dim Sum
$$
|
705 West Broadway (Fairview
) 604-873-9147
Web
Food
Fried Green Bean Sichuan Style (Dry & Hot) - $11.95
Drink
Tea - Complimentary
Details
The Szechuan green beans at Golden Great Wall might not be the best in town, but they are a solid rendition
of a stellar dish. The spicy, smokey, garlicy nuances of the dressing amplify the clean flavours of the green beans.
The texture of the exterior of the beans is also excellent, gas ranges get close but only commercial burners or a burner
hooked up to a propane tank provide enough BTUs to achive this effect. Tea is the perfect match for the beans, the tannins
in the tea cut the oily sheen on the beans but do not temper the heat from the spices.
Golden Great Wall
Mis Trucos
***
2009-08-18
***
Mis Trucos
Wine Bar
Cocktail Bar
Small Plates
Tapas
Medditerranean
$$
|
1141 Davie St. (Downtown
West end
) 604.566.3960
Web
Food
Basque Piperade, Serrano Ham, Poached egg, Manchego cheese - $7
Drink
Spanish Snapper - $8
Details
Mis Trucos delivers intense flavours and striking plates. The piperade is no exception. A skirt of good
Spanish ham is unfurled on the plate over which a flavourful red pepper ragout is layered. A fresh poached egg is laid over the piperade
and grated manchego cheese completes the dish. Too good for breakfast? Perhaps not but I think I appreciate this dish all the more
late in the night. The Spanish Snapper cocktail is a bloody mary variant, flavourful with house made parsely salt rim. This would be a
killer breakfast drink, hence the pairing with the ham and eggs...
Mis Trucos
Menya
**
2009-08-16
**
Menya
Japanese
Noodles
|
401 West Broadway (Fairview
) 604-725-9452
Food
Tonkotsu Ramen - $6.50
Drink
Tea - Complimentary
Details
The tonkotsu ramen at Menya is a solid example of the style. The broth is a nice milky beige,
showing the long simmering process for the pork bone broth. A bit salty perhaps but not overtly so. Portions are reasonable
and for the price generous. The noodles are pretty standard, and can be a bit overcooked. A few slices of stewed chasu pork
pickles and sprouts round out the dish. Overall a pretty satisfying bowl of noodles and much better than you might expect at this
price. Despite minor issues with broth salinity and noodle texture this is legitimate ramen with great concentration of
flavour in the broth.
Menya
Las Tortas
**
2009-08-16
**
Las Tortas
Mexican
Sandwiches
Take Out
$
|
3353 Cambie St. (Cambie Village
) 604-569-1402
Web
Food
Choriqueso Torta - $9.30
Drink
Tamarind Aqua Fresca - $2
Details
Las Tortas is all about the sandwich. Fresh house baked bread, fresh toppings, hot grilled filling cooked to order.
This is real street food, but of course in Vancouver you have to go indoors to get it. Well, it makes great take out for
picnic style eating at a nearby park. I'm partial to the choriqueso. Chunks of chorizo sausage grilled together with the firm
Oaxacan cheese. A substantial sandwich, with pickled onions cabbage and jalapeno providing tartness and light heat, rich filling and some
refried beans showing a new path to take place of hummus or tuscan bean dip as a dip or spread on bread. The tamarind aqua
fresca is a lightly sweet and lightly sour drink that refreshes against the strong flavours of the torta.
Las Tortas - We all know Vancouver is woefully lacking in street food (The night markets serving more to tease than satisfy)
However, there are a few places that refuse to let city hall spoil the fun and provide great street food in the context of a
small indoor establishment, basically inviting you to take your street food out into the urban landscape. Hawkers Delight springs to mind,
but the newly opened Las Tortas right out of the gate makes a strong claim to providing the best indoor street food in the city.
Timed to coincide with the re-surfacing of Cambie village and scant days after the skytrain opened, this bright clean space is small
but promises the big flavours of the Mexican sandwich; Tortas.
Duffin's Donuts
*
2009-08-05
*
Duffin's Donuts
Chinese
Vietnamese
Deli
Sandwiches
$
|
1391 41st Avenue East (East Van
) (604) 677-0007
Food
Pork Torta - $3.95
Drink
Coffee - About $2
Details
Duffin's Donuts is a kind of Blade runner polyglot in the present day. In addition to the expected donuts,
they offer Chinese food, Western greasy spoon diner fare, Vietnamese sandwiches and most interestingly mexican tortas. There are
around 15 varieties on offer, but I prefer those featuring pork. You get a medium sized bun filled with grilled spicy meat and
fillings. Not quite a meal on their own, but a filling and inexpensive snack. Open 24 hours so you can get your torta fix
any time. This is useful because this is great to provide some ballast after indulging in drinks. (Please don't drive if you've had a few)
Duffins Donuts
Clubhouse Japanese Restaurant
**
2009-07-26
**
Clubhouse Japanese Restaurant
Japanese
Sushi
Sashimi
$$
|
255 W 2nd Ave (False Creek
) (604) 879-8998
Web
Food
Dave and Mike's Roll - $6.00
Drink
Draft Beer - Around $5
Details
The Dave and Mike's roll is a 'Holy' roll e.g. battered and fried. It is large futomaki styled roll with
salmon, tuna and asparagus. The batter around the Nori keeps the roll crisp on the outside and is still raw on the inside.
Excellent. Also looks wonderful on the plate. Any crisp beer works well with this so either go with any of the J-brews(Kirin,
Sapporo, Asahi) or just get some local beer on tap.
Clubhouse
Kakurenbou
**
2009-07-21
**
Kakurenbou
Japanese
Sushi
Sashimi
Izakaya
$$
|
793 Jervis Street (West end
Downtown
) (604) 696-9965
Web
Food
Nonkotsu Karaage - $6
Drink
Sapporo pint - $4.95
Details
Among the standard izakaya offerings and inventive creations at Kakurenbou, the humble nonkotsu karaage stands out
to me as a revelation. Regular karaage is not something I order often, but the nonkotsu variant intrigued me.
Growing up, I always enjoyed eating the crunch cartilage in chickens and turkeys and pork. The nonkotsu is
chunks of chicken containing the cartilage or 'knees'. So, on the one hand this is simple fried chicken chunks, with salt
and dipping sauce. On the other hand, its a crunchy treat for my inner child. I guess the world is divided into those that love chicken
Mc Nuggets, boneless 'wings' and regular karaage and those of us who love to crunch away enjoying all the tasty and texturally interesting
bits. It makes me feel good somehow that in Japan my unvoiced cravings find acceptance in this dish. Obviously beer is the thing to drink
with fried chicken. While I'd be happy with both an I.P.A. or a rich brown ale, a crisp light lager also does well and so any of the
standard J-brews will work. Kakurenbou has Sapporo on tap so thats the way to go in this case.
Kakurenbou
The Diamond
****
2009-05-31
****
The Diamond
Cocktail Bar
Small Plates
Tapas
Fusion
Asian
$$
|
6 Powell Street (Gastown
)
Web
Food
Peking duck sub - $8
Drink
Pegu Club - $8
Details
The peking duck sub at The Diamond is a kind of Sino-Viet fusion, essentially an outtake
on a bahn-mi. Its dubious authenticity is rendered completely meaningless by the wonderful taste of
hoisin sweetened barbeque duck and crisp veggies on a bun. Works for me. Pair it with something with
good acidity to cut the ricness of the duck and sauce. The pegu club works nicely for this. Its a refreshing drink
with gin citrus and bitters being the main components. Works for me. Works with the sub.
The diamond...